"Cattle Ranching, Brazilian?Style"

Brazil might conjure up visions of Ipanema Beach and the sounds of samba, but there's a side to this vast country that has a strong ranch tradition as well. Deep in the heart of the province of Mato Grosso du Sul is Fazenda Santa Cruz, a working cattle ranch or "fazenda" that offers guests a chance to see how it's done in South America's largest country.

"Fazenda Santa Cruz represents the real Brazilian experience of ranching."explains Luciano Nogueira Neto, the owner of the ranch. "It's the only productive and sustainable Brazilian guest ranch in Mato Grosso do Sul, which is the state with the biggest herd in Brazil." Fazenda Santa Cruz is a 3,000 acre working cattle ranch that offers cattle roundups and drives. This economically sustainable ranch is run on sound ecological principles, with a seasonal variable capacity from 900 to 1,800 heads.

"Our guests are interested in more than riding," Nero observes. "They're interested in all the cattle work, including corral work."

Guests ride Quarter horses, outfitted with Western saddles, to accompany Santa Cruz's hands on their daily rounds. They join them in round?ups, doctoring livestock, mending fences and cattle drives. A stay here is also a good opportunity to learn or improve your roping skills since Alberto Lopes, the ranch manager, and his wife Clara, are renowned regional roping champions.

Or you can ride the range by yourself, since the riding here is open riding instead of nose?to?tail. You can even elect to catch, groom, and outfit your own horse or have it brought ready to the house. But what makes this ranch truly unique is its small size and the fact that you'll find yourself with only your own group of friends or family. You can even come as a couple and take it over.

"We're unique in that we cater to just one group at a time," Neto explains. "Even if you book just for yourself we will not take anybody else during your stay. But it helps that our maximum group size is small, just four adults and two children."

Think of it as a boutique ranch in a huge swath of South America. At the heart of the ranch is a charming wood and glass house that offers amazing views and bird watching for such species as macaws and toucans. There are hammocks strung on a deck for relaxing and sipping a freshly made caipirinha after a day in the saddle. Meals are cooked over a wood stove and while there is electricity at the ranch, as well as satellite internet connection, the atmosphere of the main house is rustic indeed. It's illuminated only with candles and kerosene lamps.

Nero's background might explain some of this love of rusticity. He was formerly in show business, having co?owned and run two live music theaters in Sao Paulo. Since selling his interests in the theaters in 2000, he's devoted all of his energies to the ranch.

So far, few Americans have ventured to this area in search of the Brazilian ranch experience. Instead, it's largely been guests from England. But Americans who do come here will find a unique guest ranch experience. Nero notes that the proximity of the Pantanal, the largest wetlands in the world, makes Fazenda Santa Cruz ideal for "Americans wishing to know the hinterland of Brazil. Bodoquena and Bonito are close by and you can visit the Gruta do Lago Azul and go snorkeling at the Rio da Prata. And the ranch is surrounded by a great deal of forest, which makes it ideal for walking and wildlife and bird watching."

Indeed, deer, capybara and tapir are commonly sighted here, as well as thousands of birds.

"Some people come for the calm and peace that our environment produces, Nero says. "Some people come to read and write looking at the scenic hills covered with forests. Some people came for the food and others come because of our lack of electricity. But our fantastic star gazing nights are also very much appreciated."